Miriam O’Brien Underhill (July 22, 1898 – January 7, 1976) was an American mountaineer, environmentalist and feminist, best known for the concept of “manless climbing” – organizing all-women’s ascents of challenging climbs.

American mountaineer who pioneered all-female climbing expeditions. Considered the best American female mountain climber of her time, Underhill often ascended peaks without guides. After preliminary climbs of the Alps and North American Rockies, Underhill organized all-female ascents of the Aiguille de Grépon (in 1929) and Matterhorn (in 1932) with skilled climbers belonging to the Groupe de Haute Montagne. In addition to accompanying her husband, Robert Underhill, on climbs, she wrote Give Me the Hills (1956), contributed to National Geographic, and edited Appalachia magazine.

&& Radio Show &&

On Monday July 22, 2024, at 8:00 AM ( Alaska Time), on our local public radio show celebrates Underhills birthday with some amazing f our favorite women’s of rock and blues. Listen live on102.7fm, or 103.1fm. or https://www.ktoo.org/listen/krnn/

++&& ## && ++

Miriam O’Brien began serious rock climbing in the Alps in May 1926, completing a first ascent on Torre Grande in the Dolomites by a route now known as the “Via Miriam” in her honor. She also completed the first ascent of the Aiguille de Roc [2] on August 6, 1927 with Alfred Couttet also known as Couttet Champion [3] and Georges Cachat in the massif of Mont Blanc.

On August 4, 1928 O’Brien, accompanied by Robert L. M. Underhill and guides Armand Charlet and G. Cachat, completed the first ascent of the traverse from the Aiguilles du Diable to Mont Blanc du Tacul in the Alps. This route involves “climbing five outstanding summits over 4000 meters in superb surroundings.

In 1929, she completed a climb of the Aiguille du Grépon with French climber Alice Damesme. This achievement by two women led mountaineer Étienne Bruhl to complain “The Grépon has disappeared. Now that it has been done by two women alone, no self-respecting man can undertake it. A pity, too, because it used to be a very good climb”.

On September 3, 1930, she climbed the most difficult route on the Finsteraarhorn, the north-east face, with guides A. and F. Rubi. This peak is the highest in the Bernese Alps. Her climb was the third ascent, and the route had only been climbed twice in the preceding 24 years.

In 1931, she climbed the Mönch and the Jungfrau in the Bernese Alps with Micheline Morin.MMIn 1932, she completed the first all-women’s ascent of the Matterhorn with Alice Damesme.

She, along with her husband, were the first to climb all of those peaks during the winter, completing the quest with their ascent of Mount Jefferson on December 31, 1960.. She climbed the Matterhorn for her third and final time in 1952. SOURCE: WIKI, ENCYCLOPEDIA.COM